Monday, June 11, 2018

Of Idolatry and Footwear Upon the Painting of Our Roof


My House


During our quiet time this morning I opened the book, Gospel (J.D. Greear), to the fifth chapter, the one on idolatry. It began, “What do you really feel like has to be present in your life for you to be happy? For life to be worth living? Maybe if you were really honest, you’d have to admit that it’s money. Or the acclaim of others. Or power. Or family. Friends, even church.”

Since I am translating this book with a radio script format, I have to make the text both personal and relevant to the Miskito-speaking audience. While idolatry and many idols themselves even (money, stuff, power, acclaim, family), are universal, that which makes the message resonate with the listener is not. Motifs and examples (What stuff? How family?) must be different here on the river than in the author’s milieu.
In an effort to tap into a personal emotion, I asked Nutie, “Can you think of a song that has a lyric like, “Jesus is all we need? One we sing in church?”

She started humming a tune segment: A song declaring we belong to Jesus/He’s all we need. 
“Yeah, that one,” I said. “When I sing that I think, I need air, water, and food! I look around me. Do people know what they’re singing?”

Nutie went on to explain the principle, “Seek ye first the Kingdom and all those things will be added on,” and I got it, but still, if Jesus comes in a bundle, how do you know which comes first? You know, like the cable TV, the internet, or the phone service? And again, Nutie said life always provides an opportunity to prove to yourself who comes first, and again I got it, but maybe I just wanted to make things complicated.

“David came to faith at the same time we were secretly getting engaged,” she said, “It was hard for him to know—was it for Jesus or Nutie? But then, immediately afterward, a guy shows up and says that God had told him I was to be his wife. We were really young and it was confusing. But David decided that if it was true, he would have to let me go, and he did that. Of course the guy was misguided. But you see, God always gives us an opportunity to know.”

I thought about my life and everything I had either given up or lost. I reviewed the question in the book: “What do you really feel like has to be present in your life for you to be happy?” My life. My life needs to be present! I said, “Does that mean God will give me an opportunity to be a martyr?”
I always seem to take things to the extreme, but really, I need to know. Is my self-preservation instinct my idol?

I’m not crazy, I don’t have a death wish. I like my life.
There’s that song we sing, “Your lovingkindness is better than life.”  God gave Dave and Nutie the opportunity to prove it to themselves. Many of their friends saw and came to faith in Jesus Christ at David’s death. But the opportunity God has given me is to love Nutie “as Christ loved the church, and gave Himself up for her”. I take small stabs at it; she serves me. She loves me so well, it’s almost too easy.
But there are daily opportunities here to be “poured out like a drink offering” (2 Thessalonians 4:6). Some are ill-advised, even scams, others are God-sent. People who can’t pay back. Hold that thought for a second.  

If you want to know just how poor someone is, look at their shoes. Poor people all over the world know this. They go to great lengths to hide their poverty from the world because of the shame, or because they know that opportunities are much more likely to be open to those of substance, or at least those who appear to have substance. Shoes are more expensive than other articles of clothing, so great care is taken to make them look new and shiny. But they wear out before you can afford the next pair.
In 1982, when many Nicaraguan Miskitos became refugees in Honduras, I went to Washington D.C. One of the top rebel leaders was there, working at the Indian Law Resource Center. I went to see him. I was impressed; it was a nice office, and his large desk was the only one in the room. It was his office. He wore black dress pants and a long-sleeve Oxford shirt. We conversed. After a while, he relaxed and put his feet up on his desk. The sole of one of his well-polished shoes had a hole in it. So did his sock.
The shame among the poor attached to worn and broken shoes is probably what made Imelda Marcos’s ownership of more than 2,700 pairs of them such an egregious offense in the Philippines. It wasn’t just a rich person’s curious fetish. Today, 800 pairs of her shoes are on display at a museum in the city of Marikina, a kind of “Never Forget” testimony of the social cost associated with her idolatry.

So, asks the pharisee, how many pairs of shoes is legit? For most of my adult life in Central America, I consistently maintained a pair of rubber boots, black dress shoes, basketball shoes, and some cheap work boots that were usually too hot and too uncomfortable to wear unless it was totally necessary. Spin moves on concrete courts usually consumed the soles of my basketball shoes in three months, so I was constantly buying new Nike’s or Reebok’s. Some Christians said that basketball was my idol, and I no doubt scandalized many pious folk by playing shirtless on the outdoor court across the street from my church.

Since marrying Nutie, I have watched my collection of footwear grow steadily. Now, after giving away several pairs, my inventory includes: a pair of brown (Dockers) dress shoes (I left a black pair in the US), a pair of brown leather “relaxed-fit Sketcher shoes, state of the art rubber boots ($100 Muck Boots),  mid-height hiking boots ($150 Teva’s I got for a heavy discount), running and basketball shoes (both Nike), Margaritaville cloth loafers, and two pairs of flip-flops. Oh, there’s also a pair of baseball cleats back in the States. Of course, each pair has a specific use, with the exception of the two flip-flops. I probably should give one away.

My Shoe Collection



I finally decided to give the metal roof on our house a fresh coat of red paint the other day. The roof gets very hot, metal is slippery, the pitch is a 5, and the eaves are a good 30 feet off the ground. Nutie forbade me to go up there. I’m too old, she said. 

“No, I can do it,” I protested.

She gave me a “I don’t want to lose a second husband” look. So, with a mixture of resignation and relief I asked my friend Abel to do it, violating my principle of never asking someone to do something I’m not willing to do myself. Abel, who just turned 30, got 16-year-old Orly to help him.

Miskito people are a courageous lot who think little of taking physical risks such as doing back flips into shallow water or riding on top of the oft-rolled bus from Managua, but there is something about working on a rooftop that spooks them. Perhaps it is because Father Hugo, a beloved priest from Wisconsin, fell 60 feet from the bell tower of the Iglesia San Rafael and burst on the concrete below. So I bought several lengths of rope and the one harness in stock at Isolina’s hardware store to tether them with. I wanted to be sure they felt safe.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                
I’m embarrassed to tell you how much I agreed to pay them. The going rate for a skilled laborer is $10 a day; I told Abel I would give him $13. “Hazard pay,” I said, gesturing toward the roof. An underage kid would normally be paid $4; I promised him $7, like a full-grown man in unskilled labor.  
The next morning, Abel came to work in flip-flops, Orly in Crocks.

“I can’t have you go up there like that,” I said.

I went up to my closet and brought down my best gripping shoes—the hiking boots for Abel and basketball shoes for the boy. Nutie raised an eyebrow, but said nothing.

Midmorning of the second day they descended and informed me that they were ready to start painting. They were working fast, like they were on contract, not day labor. They were getting after it. I noticed that Orly had on the Tevas, while Abel wore some beat-up sneakers that he must have had lying around. At five, when they knocked off, they had covered at least a third of the roof. Okay, I thought. Good. When I had originally negotiated with Abel, I had calculated that they would probably finish the job in 4 days under contract, 6 under day labor.

“If you finish tomorrow, I’ll pay you both for four days,” I said.

Orly


The next day they arrived at six in the morning and climbed the extension ladder to the water tank, then scaled to the roof via the step ladder lashed to the tank. They took a brief lunch, returned, and then at five thirty I heard the sound of the extension ladder being retracted. I went out and saw them cleaning the brushes. Orly was barefoot, my hiking boots on the steps. They were not red when I had bought them.

“You two look like you’ve been dirt biking on Mars,” I said. “Where’s my Nikes?”

Orly pointed to the door of the bodega.

The first floor of our house is like a garage—a large storage space where we keep things like tools, bicycles, and paint. I found my Nikes laying on the floor with the soles detached, picked them up, and carried them outside.

Abel

     Abel turned to his helper. “I told you so.”


Orly’s downcast face was like the beginning of a gospel story. Suddenly, I understood that it was up to me to complete it. Was a couple of pairs of shoes worth more to me than a young man’s life and safety? I handed the Tevas back to Orly. “You need to wash them before you return them,” I said, and left it at that.

Even though the dress code for preachers is pretty strict around here, I’ve worn my hiking boots to church on occasion and gotten away with it. Now, people would think them inappropriate for “holy use”. But when I see them all speckled red, they look to me like they have been sprinkled with the blood of Jesus.

The Bible never makes mention of the Apostle Peter’s father-in-law, but it was the roof of his house that people took apart to drop a paralytic at Jesus’s feet. Have you ever wondered how you would have handled it?



For shoes, put on the peace that comes from the Good News so that you will be fully prepared. —Ephesians 6:16 (NLT)


Monday, May 1, 2017

TNT April 2017





Season Nine

We’ve hit the ground running for yet another year of awe, wonder, struggle, kindnesses, and incidental sunburn on the Coco River. Things go by so fast that, every time we sit down to write to you, it seems like we have two or three newsletters worth of stories to tell. Since our last mailing in November, we’ve been all around the United States, seen many of you in person, had mothers go on to be with the Lord and grandchildren born into the world, taken mission groups to the villages, preached, taught, sung in churches, cast vision in the midst of the Waspam Pastoral Council, organized events, walked members of the Cunningham family through yet another medical emergency, laid a sidewalk, entered fiction contests, put together a basketball team, resolved differences, eaten iguanas and other jungle delicacies, and much, much more.
We each have our own takes. One hangs back, observes, the other embraces. It is said, “Fools Rush In” but then again, so does God. We learn from each other. So here we are; we are thriving, moving forward together in Resurrection Life.  -Tom and Nutie Together. TNT KABOOOM!!



A Birth, A Death, And A Spiritual Awakening

On December 22nd we flew from Orlando, Florida to Denver, Colorado to share our “bonus” Christmas with my parents and siblings. Last March, after all us kids and various family members travelled there to celebrate her life while she still had breath in her lungs, the parting words my Mom and I spoke were, “Let’s dream big and ask God for another Christmas together.” And so it was granted. Mom revived, and after several months of Hospice care she was released and went on with strength to celebrate the passing of yet another year!

 Norwegian Roots

One of the things that happens when I arrive at my parents’ home at 1118 West Mountain Avenue is that the years turn back and the parties begin. My four siblings, who live in the area, make their way over for tea and meals and walks and visits, and life has the quality of the days of our youth. Mom and Dad, no matter what state of health or mental condition, somehow revitalize, and life flows. Then add to the mix all the nieces and nephews and girlfriends and pals to increase the laughter and sweetness of the moments together. This time, Matt and Courtney dropped in to celebrate the turning of the calendar and our cousins from Norway flew in for a visit. It had been Mom’s deep desire to see her homeland once more, but as travel was not possible, Norway came to her! We spent a beautiful weekend together in the mountains (with a professional care-giver along) and it felt like Norway with snow and family and spoken Norwegian.  My final goodbye to my Mama, in person, wasn’t so hard because she was surrounded by so many she loved! What a gift God gave us!

Then, Tom and I flew off to Maui to spend three amazing weeks with our island people (Talk about a booster shot of abundant life, that’s what time spent with them feels like!).  A couple of days before our departure from Hawaii I received a call from my sister letting me know that Mom had come down with a respiratory infection, landing her in the hospital under hospice care. This time they did not expect her to recover, the end was near, so my Colorado family moved into her hospital room and kept vigil. I sang to her over the phone daily.

Tom and I left for Urban Hope in Philadelphia where Tom’s son and his beautiful family live and
serve. There was a baby on the way, our 9th grandchild, and I had been saying all along that she was going to come early and be born while we were there! And so it was! February 17 was an EPIC day for our family…a birth, a death and a spiritual awakening.

Moments spent accompanying a loved one on their final journey home are like no other. Eternity is visceral. God’s spirit so close! For Christians, we have hope, promise, and assurance. Though saying goodbye is heart wrenching, releasing your precious one into the arms of Jesus, knowing that one-day you will be reunited is so comforting. My dear father, who spent his life going to church with us as a family but never inviting Jesus to be Lord of his life, bowed his heart in the presence of my mother in her final hours. This had been her deepest and most fervent prayer… why she had hung on for so long! I was not there to witness this spiritual breakthrough, but my sisters were, and they have described for me in detail the moving of the Spirit of God that afternoon, and the beauty that filled the room. Dad, few of words when it comes to issues of the heart, smothered Mom with kisses and declared his love for her. They will be reunited one day. Sixty-five years of marriage on earth and eternity to come.


Please pray for Dad. He remains in their large home with the caregivers continuing to come daily, keeping things as normal as possible. He suffers with increasing dementia but visits her grave regularly and loves having family around.
****

River To River 

By Nutie

“River To River” is the slogan of the Radford Coffee Company, a Christian outreach whose team visited us here on the Coco River in March. Apparently, there is a river that runs through their town too!
Eric and Barbara Johnson, former overseas missionaries and now owners of the non-profit, joined forces with Mike and Laura Bagby and spent three years running the Rio Coco CafĂ© on Utila (Honduras). Then, they decided to expand the mission and returned home to Radford, Virginia to open a new shop. The Radford Coffee Company, operated by dedicated volunteers, highlights the schools on the Rio Coco, raises funds to support our teachers, and provides for various project needs. God has seriously blessed their business. From day one, they’ve had a line of customers all the way out the door, and it hasn’t stopped yet!
In mid March, though, they closed up shop for two weeks to the dismay of the town (how are we going to live without our fancy coffee and Baconagle?) in order to make the trek down here to see with their own eyes, in living color, what life and school look like on the Wangki. Though Eric and Barbara are well acquainted with Nicaragua, the seven volunteers who joined them  had found themselves constantly trying to explain the mission to their customers, having only seen pictures and heard stories about the Miskito people. Now, they were about to experience it all for themselves.
It was such a JOY to have them here. Their passion and investment of their lives in service at the Coffee Shop in order to make a difference for the people here were evident. They were curious and interested in every detail about the people, their culture, and their world.  It felt like hosting a group of anthropology students!

In Sawa, they worked really hard alongside our Miskito friends to put in a sidewalk that goes from the river to the STL building.  Now, during the wet season, we will no longer need to slog through the mud as we make our way from the canoe, up the riverbank, and through the field to the “Sawa Hilton”. Hooray! We also visited the schools where they engaged the children in song and play with such energy and passion.  On Sunday, we joined our Miskito brothers and sisters at the Moravian church in Sawa. Nick gave the message while Tom translated. In the evenings, we shared meaningful conversations as Barbara led devotions and discussions around thoughts on what a life of mission looks like. As the majority of them are musicians, our worship and singing were totally life giving! I didn’t want them to leave!


Eric had expressed to Tom a desire to serve the Pastors, so Tom arranged a one-day event at the Discipleship Building. Forty pastors from Waspam and the surrounding villages attended. Eric taught from the book of Colossians and there was a wonderful response. God willing, Eric and Barbara will be back for round two…and three…and four. Would you join us in praying for that?


****

The Relative Blessing Of Rain


In March we returned to the river and at first the nights were pleasant, cool enough that we sometimes heated water on the stove and took bucket baths. We spoke of missing warm showers but did not appreciate the cold water that came out of our shower head until mid April after the pump on our well burned up. Then we sent $500 to Managua for a new submersible pump, went down to Sawa for a week, bathed in the brown river, and when we returned to Waspam we found the old pump miraculously healed. Nights are hot now and we are thankful for cold showers.


Rain On The Righteous And The Unrighteous

Following the recent weather pattern, morning dawned brilliantly  on Thursday, April 20. Later, little lamb-clouds began to skip across the blue fields of heaven from east to west. By noon it became obvious that the big bad wolf had been chasing them. The sky darkened.
Hard rain came right after we hopped into the truck with Danilo and Carlos and continued for the entire hour it took to reach Kum. Then, just as soon as we had arrived, the rain stopped, so we got out of the truck, dry. The Batu was rounding the bend toward us. When it pulled up to the quay, we noted that everyone in it and had gotten soaked.
Navigating downriver, we had cloud cover. Casilita was cold and wet so I gave her my rain jacket. Danilo, the gash from his operation healed enough to accompany us, turned and remarked that it hadn’t rained on us. Neither was the sun blasting down. We were blest. The sun shall not smite thee by day. I said something about cosmic air-conditioning and we all laughed.

We approached Sawa. Augusto, in the stern, appeared taciturn as we glided past his fields over on the Honduran side. He was aware that the frequent afternoon cloudbursts may have ruined his bean crop. There was lots of activity all along the river of people frantically pulling up what they could. Red beans are left to dry on the vine, and they need to be harvested before the rains. Now they will probably sprout and stink up their houses and have to be thrown away. Miskito people don’t eat bean sprouts. 


We got to Sawa and walked on the new sidewalk and it was like streets of gold, only slightly pooped on. Licio was glum. The day’s shower was the hardest one yet. “The bean crop is lost,” he grunted. “Blessed be the Lord.”
  
Dry season has sputtered and failed, rainy season is here before its time. The zombie fungus between the smaller toes on my right foot has come back, as it has done for as long as I can remember. It can’t be killed. I have a Miskito joke I tell about it. In the joke I order a double-decker coffin so that every year, in my grave, when the monsoon comes I can sit up and scratch my toes.
Friday we were all on the job—Danilo was paying the teachers, Licio and Guido and Arnoldo were doing cement work on the building. We ate lunch in the kitchen with Dani but the guys who were doing the cement work ate outside. We could hear laughter coming from the group. Wherever Guido is, there is laughter.


After lunch we gave the teachers school materials we had bought for them with money you have given us A dozen teachers hung around afterward to talk story. There was a brief shower—nothing much—and then a spectacular double rainbow. Low rays of late afternoon sun brightened their faces. How good and pleasant it is to dwell together in unity. 

Rough Upgrades Department

 


The new water catchment tank was full. A haphazard pipe ran down from it, ending in a spigot which dangled awkwardly some five feet in the air. Nineteen-year-old Flor placed a bucket a certain distance away and turned the spigot on. The pressure was good; water spanned the distance, falling nicely into the bucket in a perfect arc. “Nothing but net.” This became Nutie’s shower; she did not need to feel guilty about using up drinking water for bathing because the catchment tank was replenished daily.

The Sabbath Was Made For Man Department

 



Saturday afternoon there was sun so we walked into the village to give away photographs. In every yard, bean vines were drying. The Moravian church had become a barn; beans were spread out on the cement floor and overflowed into the churchyard.

Tiny Troops Department

 


We picked up the usual tropa—an entourage of children—on the way. Orphaned Rosalinda held my hand tightly the entire time and would not let go, not even to let me sort through the pile of photos. Jafferson, her brother, did the same with Nutie. These are the children of Ana Rosa, who died an hour before Truman’s passing last August, and this is how they showed the other kids that they held special status with someone in the world. Stout little Bomba, always picked on because he insists on hanging out with kids older than he, had held my hand on the last trip and was trying to reclaim his rights, but to no avail. No worries—before too long he will be big, and no one will want too mess with him. The crowd was pressing; heat from their small bodies radiated against us. I was struck by how much having my hands held without ceasing could affect my own body temperature. I wanted them to let go, but it seemed like some kind of biblical power to heal was proceeding from me (Mark 5:30) so I soldiered on in resolute kindness, understanding the high privilege of my position. Let the little children come to me, and do not hinder them.

Hope Does Not Disappoint

 


They picked the beans up off the floor and on Sunday morning the Moravian Barn became a church again so I gave a sermon from the Luke 24 account of the men on the Emmaus Road—The Hope That Does Not Disappoint. Nutie worshiped. There was a good crowd and God was present. I looked out at the people and saw the words of Psalm 63 on their faces—"I thirst for you, my whole being longs for you, in a dry and parched land where there is no water.” Shortly after church the heavens prepared to release another downpour. People said the radio reported a “tormenta.”
The rain didn’t pass until late in the afternoon. Pastor Beres and his wife came over, expressed their gratitude, and gave us ten pounds of beans that they had managed to harvest. An alabaster jar of very expensive perfume. Nutie, in turn, handed Patricia some photographs of Ana Rosa which had she intended to give her when it was appropriate. Tears welled up and Patricia told us that the message had especially blessed her because she had been grieving that day.

Then the sun came out and stayed out, almost like with Joshua except that it didn’t remain in one place. It was just one sunny day after another and everyone was harvesting beans, stretching them out upon tarps in their yards. We visited the schools, gave out more school supplies, and had Miskito worship hoedowns with the kids. I drew a snake on the chalkboard, and after several boys took turns smacking it gleefully on the head with the teacher’s switch, I explained through the stories of Aaron’s rod and the Bronze Serpent why that serpent was Jesus. God made him who had no sin to be sin for us, so that in him we might become the righteousness of God.

The Builder

Nutie kept saying, “Danilo has become his father.” There were a few bags of cement left over from the sidewalk project so he decided to apply a repello—a stucco-like finish—to the balcony, which involved roughing the entire surface with a pick and mixing cement on the floor. It was always loud and messy outside our door, no privacy, and therefore no place to do things like bible study, prep work, or relax in the hammock during down time. Danilo has his own house and the inconvenience it caused probably never dawned on him. The day before our departure, he came up to the balcony to inspect the work. His gaze eventually drifted pleasurably past the fancy columns and railing, down to the sidewalk and the newly fenced-in yard.
“Your father ought to have been here to see this,” I said. “He would be very pleased.”
Dani smiled. “Gracias, hermano.”

****








Monday, September 5, 2016

Two Sparrows

Are not two sparrows sold for a penny? Yet not one of them will fall to the ground outside your Father's care. -Matthew 10:29




Although they contrasted in so many ways, both blows were equally devastating. One, a large life, came to a sudden and unexpected end. I was over at his house and we were talking;  I went out and the next minute Truman was gone. The other life, known by few and talked about only in hushed tones as “some girl from downriver who got that disease from her husband,” suffered perhaps the most agonizing death I have ever witnessed. One was a young mother starting out in life and the other was a grandfather contemplating his legacy. Yet poignantly, the two were born in the same small village, were distantly related, left Waspam to meet Jesus between 1:15 and 2:45 on the same afternoon, and were buried within 50 feet of each other during the glum drizzle of August 4. For Nutie and I, the events surrounding their passing were completely intertwined; we experienced them both up close as one gut-wrenching episode, such that I cannot tell about one without mentioning the other. Two sparrows did fall on the afternoon of August the second. They were both equally precious in the sight of God. They were both equally precious to us.

A few weeks ago as we were finishing a late lunch I noticed someone out on the porch. “They always come when we are eating,” I complained. I didn’t know who it was, just that it was somebody needing something.
It was Beres, one of our teachers and Pastor of the Moravian Church in Sawa. Distraught, he told us that his daughter was gravely ill in the hospital and pleaded that we would visit them. He had been in Waspam for a week and none of them had eaten anything all day. Truman and Dani were still in Puerto Cabezas with the salaries, delayed because Dani had suffered a mild heart attack. I gave Beres some money for food and promised we’d be by to see them later in the afternoon.
Ana Rosa lay emaciated on a cot with an intravenous tube attached to her wrist. She was in great pain, her belly swollen tight as a drum and her breathing labored. Her olive skin looked pale and I couldn’t see her turned-away eyes to tell whether she was jaundiced or not. Beres informed us that she had been fine a month ago and her husband had been sick, but now he was feeling better and she was like that. “Did the doctor say what she’s got?” I asked. “Her liver is swollen,” was all he said. I prayed, Nutie played her ukulele and sang. “This is my Momma’s favorite song, she said as she began to strum “One Day At A Time.” Ana Rosa, rising above the pain, silently sang along with the Spanish lyrics. Afterward, she mouthed the words Thank You.
We began to make daily visits, singing and praying, but Ana’s condition did not improve. Her parents were hurt that nobody else came to visit. Not the in-laws, no one from the church. Ana, writhing, said she just wanted to go home. Aware that I would probably be asked to help financially, I asked the doctor about her condition. He said that he was not at liberty to discuss her case, an ethic strictly observed for only one disease. He assured me that she couldn’t get any medication that she wasn’t receiving already, and that it would be unwise to move her.
“Do the parents understand?” I asked, “Because I want to help them make an informed decision. “Yes,” he answered. “If the father wants to tell you, he can.” Beres, standing behind me, said nothing. There was only the shame.

Beres called early the morning on August second. Could we come pray for her. From his tone of voice, I knew he was asking me to perform some kind of Last Rites. When we arrived, we found bedsheets stretched like curtains around her cot. Her skin no longer able to stand the mere touch of bedclothes, Ana Rosa lay naked, crying out repeatedly: 
“Ay ay Momma turn me.”
“Ay ay Momma pick me up.”
 Nutie went inside the makeshift tent and sang. As the music magically quieted her spirit I was reminded of how I wished they’d sing in church. I was summoned in. Having no idea what a proper Moravian Last Rites looked like in Pastor Beres’ mind, I prayed only a few short words:
“Lord, as you walked those Jewish boys through the flames,
Jesus won’t you come by here?
Now is her time of need.”
Immediately feeling His presence, I asked her to close her eyes and see Him reaching out to her. “Take his hand. Trust Him. He wants to take you where He is.”
I watched her hand open and her fingers move.
Nutie and I embraced the parents and went home. So did Ana Rosa.
 
Being from downriver, they needed everything—how to take the body away, a house to host a wake, a coffin to put her in, food to feed the mourners, a way back to their village where they could bury her. They looked to me to provide the answers. I went to Truman.
Mirna answered the door—she had just returned an hour earlier from two months of medical treatment in Managua and, reunited at last with her husband, had sat down to eat. She had rouge on her face. I excused myself for the intrusion and asked if I might borrow the truck. “Just a minute,” she said. 
Shortly, Truman emerged from the kitchen, still chewing. “That’s the hospital’s responsibility,” he said. “They have to issue a death certificate. If the ambulance is busy, the physician can write me a note requesting my assistance.”
Of course. What was I thinking? This is a hospital—you can’t just cart your dead away. Just because Nutie and I had walked around freely in that facility, never having to check in anyplace … I’d forgotten some rules might still apply.
“What about the trip downriver tomorrow? They want to bury her in Sawa. We could take them with us, yeah?”
“I don’t know anything about that. You’ll have to ask Dani.” Truman seemed strangely distant. He looked tired. I was interrupting his lunch date with his wife.
“I understand that the Mayor’s office gives coffins to people in need. What do you know about that?”
Without another word, Truman dialed the Lieutenant Mayor. I could tell by Truman’s half of the conversation that the woman on the other end was trying to pressure him to pay. “You’re with the gringos,” she seemed to be saying. “They’ve got money.” Never mind that there was a special fund to provide coffins for poor people. Truman answered back: “We are providing for the transport of the body down to Sawa. That implies a huge expense— sixty gallons of gasoline. We’re asking you for a couple of thousand for a coffin, that’s all.”
Initially, his words bothered me. We were going downriver anyway; there wouldn’t be any extra expense. But of course, this was the way they negotiate here. “You gotta know when to hold ‘em, know when to fold ‘em.” Truman always was a Kenny Rogers fan. In the end the Lieutenant Mayor capitulated. It was a win. I was glad I wasn’t doing the deal; I probably would have been denied on the supposition of my superior wealth, and Beres would not have had the grit to speak up. I was glad also that Truman had committed to taking Ana Rosa back to Sawa. It was a double win. I thanked him and hurried out to get the death certificate, make photocopies, take them down to the AlcaldĂ­a, visit the coffin maker, and hire a pick-up truck for a hearse. I had no idea that I had engaged Truman in his last conversation and act on this earth—to secure a coffin for his mother’s second cousin’s son’s daughter.
I was chasing down Ana Rosa’s coffin when I saw Roxy—Dani’s wife—sprinting, which is something she probably hasn’t done since grade school. “Truman’s fainted,” she gasped, and I knew something was up but Beres was tagging along with me so I couldn’t just drop what I was doing. “Probably his blood pressure’s up,” Beres reasoned. I handed the letter from the Mayor’s office to don Chico the coffin-maker. He gave a visual grunt over his glasses that said, “Government work … I’m not going to see that money for awhile.” But he had filled another order earlier in the day and had banged out an extra pine box on speculation. Ana Rosa’s casket was sitting right up there on the work bench awaiting a coat of varnish. Seeing that things were more-or-less in order, I excused myself and rushed over to Truman’s. Onofre was at the gate, gazing forlornly back toward the hospital. He swiped his hands in the air in front of him in a sign that means, “It’s all over.” Ironically, I thought, the same gesture in baseball means “Safe at home.” I called Nutie and texted Mike Bagby the news immediately.

 Don Chico had some higher priced mahogany coffins that weren’t spoken for but none of them were large enough to fit Truman. Even in death, he was larger than life. His family included half the lower Coco River and most of the other half took pains to allude to some vague relation. It was inevitable that the wake of a man who cast such a huge shadow would eclipse a vigil being held on the soggy outskirts of town for a twenty-three year old housewife who had succumbed to an unmentionable disease.

A Proverb:
Three things amaze me; four things I’ll never understand:
The way black hornets move their nests in September before the wind shifts,
How ants march ahead of the flood,
How nighthawks announce a spell of dry weather
  How the death knell tolls without mentioning a name, and waves of people flow up the street toward the house of the unexpectedly departed.

One man who had been drinking that afternoon wailed loudly, already dressed in black. A crowd gathered and quickly spilled out into the street. Dignitaries arrived. Benches suddenly appeared and the intersection was blocked off. People in Puerto Cabezas were being mobilized and entire villages downriver were emptying out as a throng poled, paddled, and motored against the current. By nightfall all the teachers were present and a quartered bullock from Truman’s herd in Sawa was being offloaded at the gate.
“Are people coming from the United States?” “¿Viene el Jefe?” I found myself being asked this question repeatedly, usually by people who had no more skin in it than to avail themselves of free food and coffee. The tone was more than expectation; it was proprietary and it irked me, not only because the Bagby’s were stuck on the island of Utila with a tropical storm bearing down on them and would not be able to make it, but also because we all loved and valued Truman for who he was, not for what his stature and accomplishments required in terms of recognition on the world stage. We had seen him deal with the whole “Lord of the Lower Coco River” thing, and to his credit, we thought he had largely put it behind him. Ultimately he had been more concerned with the issues of bipartisanship and reconciliation in a time of increasing political intransigence. He had become a peacemaker, not a demagogue.
  
I went home to see if I could get a bite to eat, freshen up, and return to the wake with Nutie for an hour or two in the evening, but when I got there the phone rang. Patricia, Beres’ wife, was hysterical. Ana Rosa’s body had burst and blood was flowing out of every orifice. I told her I would be right there; she hung up before I could say anything further.
“That could be a potentially dangerous situation,” Nutie reminded. “Because of the disease.”
“Oh no,” I shouted and rapidly tried to dial her back but no one picked up. I imagined the mother on her hands and knees trying desperately to mop up a pool of HIV contaminated blood. “This is a public health emergency,” I gasped.
Now dark, I rode down to the hospital on my bike, but there was no one in charge. They said Dr Saul had gone home. There was not a moment to spare. I cycled furiously over to his house. The path was muddy, trees were down; by the time I got to the door I wasn’t much to look at. He wasn’t there either—he was in a meeting at the Mayor’s office. I asked if there was another way out onto the street through the maze of back yards and patches of thicket and got pointed in a most unfortunate direction. Barbed wire tore my pants. I had to carry my bike through waist deep mud puddles in the dark.
I found the town leaders watching Tropical Storm Earl on the Weather Channel. I looked like I had just emerged from its center. All eyes turned as I barged into the room and blurted out what I had to tell. Dr Saul explained calmly that there was no danger; the virus dies when the body temperature drops after death. “Just make sure you clean up everything with Clorox,” he said. “And be sure to use gloves.” Suddenly I felt very tired.
I delivered a gallon of bleach to the wake and returned home to clean up. I finally made it over to Truman’s wake around nine o-clock and stayed for a couple of hours.

Obviously, our routine trip downriver was off. This meant a change of plans for Beres also. Fate had decided to bury his daughter in Waspam.
There is s certain type of Miskito man who tends to find his way into a pastoral vocation. He is at once harmless, without guile, trustworthy, and considered by all to be a “good man” but at the same time wholly lacking enterprise, most passive, a trifle adverse to hard physical work, and seemingly motivated to action by the outspoken wife whom he is wont to marry.  Beres is such a man. Now grief stricken and disoriented, he is called upon to be an event planner, and the event is none other than his own daughter’s funeral.
Without any money he must think about purchasing concrete blocks, cement, sand, gravel, rebar, zinc, some form lumber, and an iron pipe, because that’s the way they do here in the city. He would also need to feed the mourners for another day, because it would take at least one more day to get all those materials together and build the tomb. I had given him seven hundred cordobas for that purpose, and he had received an equal amount from miscellaneous donations, but that had barely sufficed to feed people on the first night of the wake.
Woefully, he told me that he had managed to borrow 66 concrete blocks but he still needed seven bags of cement, which amounted to approximately $100. I agreed to get that for him, but when I went down to Isolina’s hardware store I ran into the local Sandinista leaders, Carlos Dixon and Martha Zamora, standing beside a pick-up truck into which seven bags of cement and some rebar had just been loaded. They explained that the FSLN was making that donation and that I could cooperate by paying for the concrete blocks. I was elated and pleasantly surprised to see the community rallying around one of their own in his time of need. It struck me that Beres was totally unaware of these things coming together.—certainly he was not orchestrating it. God was lovingly providing for a poor village pastor at wits’ end.  
Four of Truman’s eight children were on their way from Managua in the bus. Another was on her way from Puerto Cabezas, having located and purchased on credit an expensive coffin big enough and grand enough to fit her dear father. His burial would not take place until the following day either, but turning him into the ground so soon had never been a consideration. Everything was being planned and efficiently taken care of.
For one reason or another the only acceptable time for a funeral service is between one and two o’clock in the afternoon; to relegate someone to a non-prime time funeral would communicate that their life was of lesser importance. Would both funerals take place side by side—Ana Rosa’s in the Moravian Church and Truman’s in the Catholic? Nutie and I imagined ourselves standing out in front trying to determine which door to enter. “I hope they don’t happen at the same time,” Nutie mused.

It had been Truman’s wish, his family informed us, that that we share a meal together at his departure from this world; just the close family of siblings, spouses, offspring, and us, the mission team. Everyone pitched in and on the second night of the wake we ate, although it was not what Nutie and I imagined, which is of course what happens. With a crowd flowing out into the street it was impossible to eat an intimate meal in physical proximity of one another. Instead, as the multitudes ate of the beef brought up from Sawa, Leskia and Mayga cooked up a cauldron of arroz con pollo and each grabbed a bite as opportunity allowed, in the midst of serving others. Nutie and I were royally served at the kitchen table—the kitchen being among the Miskito people typically off limits to the public—and we watched through the open doorway the swirling drama taking place in the sala. Catholic catechists stood and raised their voices beside the coffin, declaring that salvation is also by works according to the Epistle of James, presenting Truman’s accomplishments as evidence of his sure passage into the bosom of the Lord, and warning the young men to turn away from their profligate lifestyles and follow his example lest they be turned away in the Day of Judgement.
Throughout the proceedings, Mirna, sedated, sat quietly on her king size bed in the boudoir attended by ladies dressed in black, the door cracked open to deter the merely curious while allowing those with genuine sentiments to enter. 
Two portable canvas awnings loaned by the Catholic Church were pitched in the yard. The rank and file sat on long wooden benches underneath them. These semi-pro mourners told jokes and spun yarns, enjoyed free food. They showed their respect by being present and earned their keep by dutifully persevering through the vigil. It was a proper Miskito wake for a prominent member of the community.

Thunder rumbled throughout the night and in the grey morning Beres called to tell me that Ana Rosa was decomposing quickly. They needed to bury her now, but they were still short the form lumber, the iron pipe, and a truck to carry his daughter away. I instructed him to send his son Jaffeth to come fetch a pipe that I had set aside and hustled out to the waterfront to find some one-by tens which, luckily, were plentiful. I sent four planks with a pair of scurrilous fellows who laid them across wobbly one wheeled carts in such a way as to occupy twin ten foot swaths of the busy street, and watched them shove off, seriously hung over, in the direction of the cemetery— “El PanteĂłn” in their parlance. Calling out that I would meet them there, I peddled my bicycle over to Marlene’s house where Ana Rosa’s vigil was waning.
It was drizzling. “Nakra laya” in Miskito: God’s tears. While a handful of exhausted family members still huddled sadly under yet another awning (courtesy of the mayor) that buckled with the product of last night’s showers, guileless Rosalinda played happily out in the open with other small children, equally dread-free of her mother’s death and the tears falling from the sky. Suddenly seized by an inspiration, she grabbed a broom and pushed up on a bulge in the awning. The ensuing waterfall sent the grown-ups scurrying. She was only trying to help, poor thing. Drenched and gasping, no one could bring themselves to say an ill-tempered word. Candles glowed on somber faces that peered out through the doorway of the darkened hut and gazed upon the child for whom mortality did not exist.
A neighbor came by. I recognized him from church. “Did you notify Ebenor Panting?” he asked Beres. “I didn’t hear the bell.”
Beres shook his head.
Even though Beres was only a village lay pastor, he was still a commissioned minister of the Moravian Church. I couldn’t believe he possessed so little self-importance that he hadn’t considered bothering his reverend superiors with this detail. A bell meant there would be a funeral service in the large white church on the town square.
“Send AbsalĂłn,” the neighbor insisted.
“Lend me your bike,” said the frail boy with the unfortunate biblical name. He was happy to be given a role and I was pleased that he trusted me enough to ask. I watched him mount and ride off. Nutie and I had known him since he was in first grade back in Sawa. He had seemed so sure of himself among his peers as he progressed in his schooling. I had marked him as a leader. Then, when he came to Waspam for seventh grade, he changed. Did he miss home? Was he intimidated by the town boys, I wondered. They could speak Spanish. He had an accident; he cut himself with a machete and severed the tendons in his wrist. There was no proper PT, just a few exercises that the doctor had recommended, and perhaps he didn’t aggressively work on it. Now, traumatized by something so seemingly trivial as a loss of range of motion and grip strength, he had become shy, inward. I had shown him my own right wrist, snapped in two playing basketball in Honduras with the same therapy options—dipping my hand into hot paraffin, squeezing a ball, and rolling up a towel with my fingers. I had not fully recovered either. I couldn’t blame him. But this was a spiritual thing. It was in the family, in his father. Why couldn’t I cast it out?
Beres had to decide. It was already too late to ask, but he’d sent the boy anyway. No, he must bury her now. There was the “two turtledove” option—in this case it was a culturally acceptable practice for people of little means to take their loved one straight to the gravesite and hold a small service there, which would consist of singing some hymns and offering a brief biblical meditation. This is what he said he wanted. Would I do it? He needed a truck. I needed my bike back.
AbsolĂłn returned. He had delivered the message but had not waited for a reply from the Moravian official. I dashed out to find a truck. On any other day I would borrow the brand new Toyota that the mission had purchased. Today, obviously, it wasn’t available. It was being used in the other business.

I went from shop to shop along the main drag, first asking the merchants I knew and did business with. Their vehicles were all busy. A taxi wouldn’t do—the sight of a coffin protruding at a tilt from the trunk of a compact car would cause gasps of horror. A Miskito funeral procession is no place for creative solutions. A hearse … in your dreams. If one were to plunk down $50,000 for a used black Cadillac, pay all the introduction fees in Nicaragua, and charge, say, the paltry sum of $30 for its service, he would surely have to sell 2,000 funerals to those whom local people considered “rich”—two thousand Trumans—just to pay it off. In Waspam, the proper vehicle is a pick-up truck, and hopefully one with decent tires and a tailgate that worked. At last, a store owner called her son on the phone and said that he would come by just as soon as he had finished running an errand. “Sit downShe offered me a plastic chair.guy named Mario whose parents had a store next to Vidcar’s. Mario, draped in silver chains and dressed in a white wife-beater, said he would go.


NOTE: THIS STORY IS STILL UNDER CONSTRUCTION, BUT I HAVE DECIDED TO PUBLISH IT NOW SO AS TO INCLUDE A LINK IN OUR NEWSLETTER. IF YOU HAVE GOTTEN THIS FAR, PLEASE ACCEPT MY APOLOGIES AND CHECK BACK LATER FOR THE COMPLETED ARTICLE.
  


Saturday, June 2, 2012

Deleted Scenes From The Book Of Acts

I.    In Which I Meditate On The Role Of Stuff In The Preaching Of The Gospel



     Nutie stood on the porch, looking out on the sun-scorched grass. The sky was cloudless yet white, and the soft edged sun climbing in the East hid demurely behind a vapor partition. Small tree frogs amassed like activists in dew-damp sections of concrete, chanting, "Kwik kwik kwik kwiririk", demanding an end to the dry season.
    "I don't think I'm going to bring my boots this trip," she said at last, announcing her decision with the conviction of everywoman making a wardrobe decision. But this was different. She was talking about rubber boots, because we were going down to the swamp, where fashion doesn't count.
    Not like Nutie was adverse to fashion, however. Everyone else on the lower Wangki is content to wear the standard issue black latex footware that can be purchased in any general store in Waspam, but from the first time I saw her, Nutie sashayed through silt and slime with her feet wrapped in two sublime rubber rainbows which she had brought all the way from her friend Jenny's boutique in Makawao, on the island of Maui. They had become an extension of her personality, an object lesson on the essence of Nutie to assist the locals in cross-cultural interpretation. She, and her stylish boots, were the desperately needed rainbow of God's grace in a land that had barely emerged from The Great Flood by a matter of inches, where the promise of the Almighty not to destroy the collective human race again by deluge seemed maybe to allow for surgical strikes on a single people group like this one. Much more than a fashion statement, her boots were tools used by God to personally deliver, through the agency of Nutie, the Guarantee of the Rainbow to the very doorsteps of these villages for seven years, but finally the material gave out.
    "Too much of life on the river is somber," she lamented, looking at the still-colorful boots. They had been her companions since the beginning; since David. David had died a boot's life ago. I was her husband now. I lovinglly put bicycle tire patches on them and they continued to bless for another year, but not as at first. Nutie's left foot would get wet each time she stepped out in them, and sometimes a frown would cross her face when the exhausted elastic of her sodden sock rounded the curve of her heel.
    "I hate to have to throw them away," she said.
    "Don't," was my one word reply.  
    So she gave them to Casilita, our downriver cook whom I had nicknamed "The Sad-Eyed Lady Of The Lowlands". They weren't any good for standing water, but at least Casilita could use them to walk across the muddy field to the outhouse a hundred yards from her crumbling kitchen and be reminded that God knew her name.


The Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands
   
    Last year Nutie tried out a pair of paisley rubber cowboy boots she had purchased on a blustery January day in Estes Park, Colorado. As it turned out, they weren't functional. They didn't go all the way up to her knees like the rainbow boots had, and water poured in over the tops of them. Since they had heels like cowboy boots, they didn't have the same traction when climbing the slick, steep river banks or crossing gullies on slippery log bridges. They were okay for walking on the rain splattered streets of Waspam, but that was the extent of their utility.
    This would be the first time since I'd been a part of her life that Nutie would not carry boots downriver, but we were on a minimalist mission as we prepared our gear, jettisoning everything that wasn't absolutely essential.
    "It's the height of the dry season," I said. "I don't think they will be needed."
Nutie packed a pair of Teva's instead. "We live so comfortably here in Waspam now," she said. "I think it's important that we live on the level of the people when we go downriver."
    "I like traveling light," I agreed.

    I stopped packing for a moment and stared into space, pondering all the things I'd ever been taught about the role of this world's goods in the preaching of the gospel. People's wide-ranging prescriptions, from those who held that Jesus' words to the twelve when he sent them out applied to everybody--“Take nothing for your journey, neither a staff, nor a bag, nor bread, nor money; and do not even have two tunics apiece"--to my teachers at Abundant Life School of Ministry who preached that wealth was a sign of God's blessing and a powerful, integral part of our testimony to the world. Wasn't it the Apostle Paul who wrote, "Now I beseech you, brethren, by the name of our Lord Jesus Christ, that ye all speak the same thing, and that there be do divisions among you."? That would be nice. But little heed has been paid to Paul's beseeching down the centuries; by the time I came along, I heard competing, discordant strains of doctrine that launched from every street corner, pulpit, and bible school, collectively defying the simplicity of the gospel like an an equation jumbled and miscopied on the blackboard, of polynomials needing reduction and crossing out on each side of an equal sign when they weren't really equal at all. If they don't agree with each other, how can they all be absolute truth? I tried to make some sense of it. The end of my ciphering left only a stray word from the old beat poet Fred Neil as I took off for the jungle:

Everybody's talking at me.
I don't hear a word they're saying,
Only the echoes of my mind.
People stopping staring,
I can't see their faces,
Only the shadows of their eyes.

I'm going where the sun keeps shining
Thru' the pouring rain,
Going where the weather suits my clothes,
Backing off of the North East wind,
Sailing on summer breeze
And skipping over the ocean like a stone.

    Shipwrecked in Central America. I remembered how it had been in the old days, before I met her. I would lay a towel on the concrete floor for my mattress, and a rolled up a pair of jeans for my pillow. In my pack I carried a single change of clothes, a bed sheet, a bible, and a mosquito net. Shivering in a t-shirt in drenching rain as we traveled on the river, I would look at Truman and the others, decked out in bright rain suits that Mike had brought them from the States. They were the Target Population. They had the air mattresses and the tents and all the gear. I wished Mike would bring me some. Even though I was born in the States, I had left no bridges back there, no one to go back to, and you couldn't just go out and buy REI camping gear in Honduras. It never escaped my attention that Truman and his crew deliberately placed my pack on the bottom of the pile, their own in the middle, and finally the Americans' on top, covering over the mound of belongings with a black plastic tarp so that when the rain rolled down into the bilge, the water sloshed unseen, to and fro with the changing speeds of the outboard, and my things were the ones to get wet.
    It had bothered me that Mike, all the Americans … why were they so oblivious to our Miskito friends' visual construction of the social order? Was this the way of the gospel? To Americans I was Miskito, and to Miskitos, a Madaukra, a banana fallen off the bunch and left behind. Since I had recently come to Christ, I understood that my life from here on was supposed to be a process of abiding in the Vine, of reconciling my own bitterness and self pity with the mind that was in Christ, who being 100% God was forsaken by the Father, and being 100% man was scorned by men, yet for the joy set before Him had endured the cross. How was I going to be joyful about seeing my pack get wet every time, and the others' things dry at my expense? How could I accept the Americans' complacent ignorance, or the natives' predatory satisfaction at having moved one sadistic rung past me on the totem pole? I was irreconcilably selfish and had no idea how I was going to get through this. All I could do was bluff, not let on that it bothered me. Convince myself that I was tougher than all of them.

    Twenty years later I look back and see with amazement how God not only restored my life but also relationship with those very friends--those who couldn't see and those who did me harm. It was the Lord who, after having rescued me from these and many other hands stronger than mine, brought me out into a large place, and then--irony of ironies--sent me back to work side by side in harmony with those same people, sweetening the pot by giving me Nutie, the kindest, rainbow-booted proof of God's lovingkindness! I had everything I could ever have asked for and more. Now, what was sleeping on the floor to me? I loved sleeping on the floor … with Nutie. Material things had nothing to do with it. For me, this trip was not going to be roughing it at all.
    Reviving from my reverie, I looked around our little flat. "We live in a mansion," I exclaimed. "We live in a tiny mansion!"
    "I am very grateful that I don't have to live with bugs biting me every day," she said. "Very grateful."

                                Two things I asked of You,
         
Do not refuse me before I die:
Keep deception and lies far from me,
         
Give me neither poverty nor riches;
         
Feed me with the food that is my portion,
That I not be full and deny You and say, “Who is the LORD?”
         
Or that I not be in want and steal,
         
And profane the name of my God.

    Dani left Waspam in the boat at around 10:00. We would take the truck and meet him in Kum, but didn't head out until noon. The grass in the villages along the road from Waspam to Uhri was a little burnt-looking, but once we got to Wasla everything was lush and  green. The stretch of thicket between Kum and the river landing looked gnarly because of recent rains, but there was hardpan beneath the mud. The truck lurched and fishtailed its way past scrub nancite, mangrove, and hicaco, arriving at the landing a good half hour before Dani appeared around the bend in the river, so we killed time watching a child play with a homemade toy truck he had fashioned from an extra length of rough-cut 4 X 4, an old cassette recorder console, a vial formerly containing deep-heating rub, some wire, nails for axles, and for tires, circles cut from discarded slippers. Two canvass covered Mitsubishi's came and deposited loads which men carried to dugout batu waiting at the water's edge where the boy pulled on a length of fishing line, his truck rolling behind him. The rich life of a child from a village where the road ends. Here was his statement on the relative value of stuff: the toy, made from refuse tossed upon the ground, was priceless. 



    Finally Dani appeared in the batu. It was loaded with cement for the floor of the Moravian Church. Forty sacks, whose transport was our inter-institutional contribution.
    From there the trip to Sawa was only two hours, which was long enough to get caught in an afternoon rain shower. Dry season in a rainforest is probably an oxymoron, but there is a difference. The river does not run chocolate anymore; the waterline is down twenty feet and the placid surface is emerald green, reflecting the vegetation on the steep banks. As we got near we began to see people we knew. Moving in and out of lush foliage, we spied one of our teachers, Lobres Ocenes, walking back from Andris, where he'd said his final good-bye to his father at the patch of high ground where the swamp people bury their dead. Beside a pocked bank of red clay we saw a group of heads bobbing and ducking beneath the water. They were catching crawdads. It was Leonardo Vanegas and his family. Leonardo used to be pastor of the Moravian Church in Sawa, but had been replaced after some struggle. Accusations and counter-accusations. Now Beres and his brother Elmo were pastor and co-pastor, and people were criticizing Elmo for smoking pot. Leonardo, shirtless in the river with his wet, matted hair and his sun-darkened skin, looked so ordinary, so … civilian. We'd given him pastor things like neckties when he was pastor. That's what he'd asked for. We greeted him warmly as we passed. We were glad to see him with his family and hoped he was walking with God. 

Leonardo's Family Catching Crawdads in the Emerald Water

     Arriving, we disembarked stiff-legged and scrambled up the incline, carrying belongings on our shoulders. Nutie had her umbrella in her hand and guitar flung across her back. I took her free hand.
    To my surprise, the field in which our compound sits was worse than in the rainy season. A preponderance of the village horses and cows in Sawa belong to Truman, Dani, and Augusto, and these blessings from God bring the rest of the herd with them to pass the night there. Formerly there had been enough grass to dodge the pies of excrement; now, however, uric acid had killed everything green, and recent rains coupled with the pounding of a thousand hoofs had done well to emulsify dirt and dung. The whole field was a brown sea of slop. 
     We set up camp in the empty concrete structure and from the second floor balcony watched the spent sun slip beneath the tree line in Honduras.
    "I guess you could have brought your boots," I replied, motioning toward the field. I felt responsible.
    "The sky is so beautiful," sighed Nutie. The heavens slowly darkened. Nutie claimed the stars as they appeared until the humming crepuscular swarm chased her inside.
   
         
II.    In Which I Consider The Gospel's Impact On Culture and Culture's Impact on the Gospel 



    The woman answered and said, "I have no husband." Jesus said to her, "You have correctly said, 'I have no husband'; for you have had five husbands, and the one whom you now have is not your husband. This you have said truly. (John 4:17-18)
   
    To know the people, what's going on in their lives, and to say the right thing; to speak the words that bring freedom. That's what I want from life, from all the things we call programs and projects and ministry in this place. I'm as it were a Jew and these are Samaritans, but I want the gospel to impact the culture, not the other way around. Not the religious culture of this mountain, nor the godspeak of that city. What does "in Spirit and in truth" look like here in the jungle? I need to make sure. God does not require Miskito Indians to smile for their photograph, but He does want their joy to be made full.
    The Holy Spirit knows everything, He searches the hearts. Although I have the Holy Spirit in me, I have to admit I know precious little. Miskito people are as guarded as Samaritans, never airing their own dirty laundry outside. God permitted me to live among them in Honduras for over thirty years, in a Miskito extended family, with with the duties of husband, son-in-law, resource provider. I suffered as a Miskito man. I know from experience the cultural patterns, roles, expectations, rhythms of life, common strengths and sins--many of the deep things that are kept in darkness. But now I am in Nicaragua and although Miskito these are not my family and I know precious little. Every person has his own secrets. I need to know more; I need to go deeper. Holy Spirit, speak to me.

    Another voice also stirs; well, a lot of voices all hissing at once, harshly, saying bad stuff against the gospel. They say, "What gives you the right to go in and change this culture?"
    I answer back. "I can't change another culture. You think I can?"
    They say, "Christians use the name of God to tell a whole people group what they're doing is wrong and impose their own set of values."
    I counter: "What, you mean like gender equity?"
    "Huh?"
    "All of the secular development projects, the United Nations and the rest, enforce gender equity in their hiring of local people and also with regard to participation in workshops. For example." I give it emphasis: "For example."
    "So?"
    "Well, the male Miskito leaders didn't decide that. That came down from headquarters in New York. It was a moral issue with them. They thought it was wrong that all the leaders were men. Now it's different; there's always women in the mix."
    "But that's a good thing."
    "So you agree it's a good thing to go in and change a culture for moral reasons? People who want to change the culture are called 'progressives'; those who want to keep the status quo are the 'conservatives'. Are you progressive or conservative?"
    "Why I'm progressive."
    "Why is it then that you and so many who call themselves progressive object to the gospel?"
    "Why do so many people who call themselves "conservative" try to use God's name to maintain power and the status quo?"
    "That's not the gospel you're talking about; that's the world system. The world system is selfish motives. People who mock God to gain constituency and remove the conservatives from power do the same thing. The progressiveness of the gospel does not come by force of self-will but by the power of the Spirit."
    I guess that did it, because when I said those words the hissing voices talked among themselves in confusion and then got quiet. I had told them I am a progressive and it must have thrown them for a loop. But I am a progressive for realzies. I want to see progress from darkness into light. I see the world. It is broken and messed up; I'm not satisfied with the way things are. When my Miskito wife was a girl she was raped after class by a pastor who violated her with the stump of his amputated thumb, and then she wasn't allowed to graduate from the sixth grade because her father wouldn't give her ten Lempiras for her diploma.  So she ran away to the capital city and fell in with the bohemians. She got into drugs, became an alcoholic. Things are messed up; I want to change things, but I can't change anything. I couldn't change my own wife. The anger of man does not achieve the righteousness of God. Unfortunately, neither does legislation. Change occurs at a much deeper level. Come, Holy Spirit, speak to us.              

    We were happy to be back downriver so soon after our previous visit, and on the morn we got excited when Rosap and Maddy showed up at our camp with a bunch of bananas and some splendid news about what had taken place.

Rosap & maddy at home    On our last trip we had gone looking for Rosap because he had taken a sabbatical from his watchman duties in Waspam to build a kitchen and work in his plantation, and then never returned. We missed him, so we when we went down to Sawa we visited his house and saw that his wife Maddy was still sick, not having fully recovered from the bite of the "air snake". There she was, sitting hunched in a homemade chair in the middle of the stark, dilapidated post-and-beam shack. Immediately I recognized the situation: all the windows were shut to keep out the evil spirits according to the traditional belief. Inside the house it was dark except for eery shafts of bright tropical sunlight that streamed in through spaces between boards of siding without battens. We prayed for her, forbidding the evil spirits in the name of Jesus and speaking words of healing over her.
    I took Rosap aside. "Evil spirits can go through walls," I confided. "That's what I believe. Shutting the windows doesn't do anything to keep them out."
    Rosap looked very worried. But he was listening to me.
    "After Jesus was raised from the dead, He came in to the disciples through the walls of the room where they were shut in. They felt foolish, all shut in like that, and Jesus walks right in and lets them touch him. Walls and closed windows are good to keep out drug addicts who want to break in and rob you, not for evil spirits. They can get in wherever there's fear. You need to open all the windows when you are here. That shows the evil spirits that you aren't afraid of them anymore. We prayed and the blood of Jesus covers the doors and windows now. You wife will get better if you do this."
    With that, we read Psalm 91 to them and left, but I didn't really feel like we had gotten through. Still in the yard, I turned to Nutie and told her, "You know Rosap, the people here process things differently than we do. Explanations don't work very well with them. Rosap needs God wrapped in a concrete experience. A baptism in the Holy Ghost, like the Pentecostals do it."
    "Mmm-hmm," said Nutie, nodding. The Pentecostal meetings with their loud, overdriven music and hellfire preaching style--lips pressed to the mike--didn't much appeal to her sensitive ears and her gentle spirit, but she was willing to concede that when these dear, rough river people go "Pente" something happens. They no longer live in fear of the evil spirits, even if they do twitch a lot and tend to boast the power to do things they never seem to be able to deliver.
      "I really don't want to bring the whole cultural pentecostal thing down here," I  confessed, "But somehow God has to break through. I wish they would just believe Him at His word and not have to copy all the other stuff."
    Now, two weeks later, here they were at our camp. Maddy was well; they were glorifying God and bringing their offering in a bunch of bananas from their yard. The look in Rosap's eyes was one of astonishment. I was probably a little more surprised than he. I honestly don't know all the nuts and bolts of how healing occurs in an illness without medical cause, but the fear was gone, replaced by faith. We took their picture and told them we would check in on them later on.


Maddy healed, with Rosap & Nutie
      
    Since we had only light administrative work--distributing school calendars, taking pictures of 10 or 15 kids each in four different villages and interviewing the same number in another--we were looking forward to making a sweep through Sawa with our team members, concentrating on involving them in ministry to spiritual needs. We felt they tended to slip too easily into support roles: labor intensive but routine logistical tasks, collecting reports, paying teachers, and investigating what smack people were saying behind their backs. They are loathe to upset the status quo, and become mere spectators when Nutie and I act foolishly, singing and playing with the kids or doing any kind of weird personal ministry. These things were outside their box. They were more comfortable distributing notebooks, proclaiming the benefits of work ethic, promoting Mothers' Day, and speaking out on the general evils of thievery and the drug trade. Doing the spiritual grunt work of the Lord Jesus was another story. In church what they were good at, what people sought from them as dignitaries, was leadership in organization, and contribution of materials such as cement for the concrete box where God was supposed to live. Yet outside the box is where heaven is; and a people are not transformed unless heaven gets into the box and eats the walls away from the inside, where guilt, fear, and perversion have dwelt in the safety of darkness.


    We had a meeting with our team. We told them we'd purchased a digital projector with which we could show a DVD The Passion of Christ. We wanted to go house to house in Sawa, sharing the gospel, praying for people and extending invitations to a Saturday evening screening in which we would also show slides and video clips of the local children and adult villagers as well. Everyone liked the idea of showing a movie and reminisced in eager tones about the times when they had participated in such things. This is what had been done in the past: Americans brought a generator, lights, projector, microphones and speakers, and showed the Jesus movie. Everyone came. There were crowds. But the projector bulb burned out, and they took the equipment and stored it away. That was the end of revival. It never got past a motion picture show.
    Truman said, "Now that we have a projector we can show the movie in every village. Not just Sawa and Klampa and Livinkrik. We can go up to Kiwastara. Every village can be a Seek The Lamb village!"
      I was pleased with their enthusiasm but really wished I could find a way to get them to think in terms of objective. The objectives of a subsistence culture are self-evident: you plant, fish, hunt, and procreate in order to survive. It doesn't take much reflection, it takes action. All the rules for behavior have been figured out long ago and handed down from the ancestors. But the ancestors all sinned, and gave themselves indulgences, which in turn became the unspoken practice of culture. The objective I had in mind was not to show movies or expand our radius of influence but to cause radical change in this culture; to the way in which they relate to God, to each other, and to their environment. I was certain that inner spiritual change in the residents would do more to improve the quality of education in Sawa than technical supervision of classrooms, but we needed to really know them to help them. We needed to appear at their doorsteps and be of service.

    We agreed to divide into three groups. The village of Sawa is a narrow string of huts running along the bank of the Wangki River. There is a footpath with a single row of houses on each side. Seventy yards in from the riverbank, the ground dips back into swamp and there is nobody to convert except howler monkeys, gators, and snakes. The village can be divided into three sections. The first, about 400 meters long, extends from the first clearing upriver where the shaman called Dineral lives, to the school and the adjacent Moravian Church. This is Truman's and Augusto's neighborhood. From there, a raised cement walkway runs three hundred meters to the Catholic Church. This is the center of town, so-to-speak, and the huts are built more closely together. There was originally enough cement to make a walkway the whole length of town but the bags of cement disappeared into people's homes and were lost without anything ever having been made with them. The stretch of village furthest downstream is the longest, around 500 meters, with shabby huts built further apart in the shadow of large trees so that this section appears darker than the rest of Sawa, physically and spiritually. Dani and Augusto would take upriver--kla sait--Onofre and Rodolio would take the middle of town, Sofia, Nutie and I would take the end downriver. 
  
Auristina's house
At Auristina's House
   
    Nutie and I began at the last house in a little clearing where colorful butterflies danced in stippled sunlight. No one was home except some children: Ricardo and Alina Conly, Chaves and Jorda Riquel. I blurted out that we had pictures of all of them and that tonight they would see themselves on a big screen just like movie stars. Images of a bruised and bloodied Jim Caviezel staggering toward Golgotha didn't even cross my mind. Sofia motioned to us, saying that there was a sick person in the next house.
    Indeed, an old woman named Auristina, grandmother to the children, sat on a raised porch with her bare feet dangling through the empty space of a missing floor board. A woman perhaps in her early 30's, her daughter, was dressed in black.
    "She's sick," said Sofia, pointing to the daughter, who proffered a sweet smile and an absent gaze. It was evident she was mentally ill.
    I asked her for her name. "Clementina," she replied in the voice of a little girl from long ago.
    I turned to Auristina. "Her spirit is outside?" I asked, speaking the phrase which Miskito people use to describe schizophrenia. "Ai lilka latara sa, apia?"
    "Au," the mother nodded.
    "When did this happen?"  
    "Since she was a child."
    "Did she see a demon?"
    "Yes."
    "Which one?"
    "Liwa kum," she said. A water demon.
    I called Nutie up to the porch and we laid hands on her, praying and asking God to have mercy on her. We proclaimed the name and the blood of Jesus, I spoke and told Liwa he or she had to leave (since there are male and female liwa), uttering the second person pronoun and the imperative tense of the verb in the most manly voice I could muster and even stomped my foot, which violently shook the rickety porch and gave us all a little adrenaline moment. I went through the whole repertoire I had learned from my Pentecostal training (well, not the whole repertoire--I didn't tell the demon he had to flee in seven directions) even as I remembered Pastor Randy's admonition against doing such things because of the passage in Jude which warns against "ungodly men" and "filthy dreamers" who have "crept in unawares" and speak evil of dignitaries even though Michael the archangel wouldn't bring a railing accusation against the devil but said, "The Lord rebuke thee.'
    "The Lord rebuke thee in Jesus' Name," I tacked on the end of my rant. The truth is that I sincerely wanted Clementina to be okay and I believed God could do anything and I didn't think I was a filthy dreamer; I needed to just let fly and be ready to accept whatever criticism the Lord might have of my technique. I was so over myself and all my doubts. What would a psychologist do anyway, give her medication?
    The face of Clementina smiled sweetly and the little girl from long ago thanked me for praying for her. "I go to church every Sunday," she said.
    I invited them to the showing of The Passion and we moved on. There were a couple of cases of stomach ulcers, another old woman and her grown son Gregorio, who lived across the footpath from her, whose house we had visited several times before to pray for his daughter's malaria. I talked to him about anxiety and diet, and Nutie said, "Do you have any Bible references for him?"
    I read Jesus' words about worry to him from Matthew 6 and Paul from Philippians 4, "be anxious for nothing", which he eagerly listened to, fetching his bible afterward in order to bookmark these passages. It was a great encouragement to us to be able to reason with a guy with his bible open before him and to know that he would go back and let God's words sink in, and perhaps be strengthened as he approached the mind numbing insecurity of living entirely off a land frequently submerged beneath the surface of the Wangki River in a time of climate change.

Baby at the door
Baby Answers The Door

    We had time to linger at one more house. I was sure the other two teams had already come in from their foray, and Sofia, who had no watch, was looking like she wanted to look at her wrist, if indeed she had owned a watch. Before us was an unpainted house of rough cut-pine that looked kind of like a Miskito duplex, whose doors on either end of a weathered front porch containing a single metal chair obviously lifted from school, were closed. A crude drawing made with colored school chalk adorned the wall, and sounds like a baby crawling were coming from inside. A pot dropping and the scolding voice of a female child. I climbed the chicken-ladder front steps fashioned from rounds of roble, the rungs barely two inches in diameter. When I was young I had run up this kind swiftly, confident of my balance. Now my ailing knee humbled me; I used my hand to steady myself.
    The door to the left--the kitchen--burst open and a toddler came out crawling at high speed, but seeing me came to a sudden halt. She looked to be 14-16 months, old enough to walk, but she was crawling for pleasure on callused knees, being chased by a round-faced girl, maybe thirteen who also stopped short. The spirit of fun hovered guiltily in the air like a basketball player expecting to be punished for hanging on the rim.
    "Jesmary," I said, "Good Morning. So … this is where you live?"
    Jesmary, AKA Sodelma, nodded. We had her listed as Sodelma; Sodelma Colomer, the daughter of Mesac Colomer and Alejandra Medrano, and had given her a sponsor in the United States. There had been a mix-up: having taken and printed her picture, we wanted to give her a copy, but couldn't find her at school. The other kids saw it and told her, and here came Jesmary--she went by her stage name now--demanding her photograph. That year she vanished during the recess between second and third grade. We asked the teacher, Pablo Suazo, what had happened.
    "Waitna brisa," he had said. She has a man.
    The present Jesmary grabbed the toddler by the arm to restrain her.    
    "Did you ever get your photo?" I asked.
    "No," she protested emphatically. "You never gave it to me."
    "Yes I did … didn't I give it to you over at Sobaida's house that time?"
    "No."

  Jesmary   I was a little bit disoriented. "Well, check with Arnoldo. I gave him all the photos of people we couldn't find." I paused, looking her over. With her budding breasts, her tight, adolescent belly … could she have given birth?
    I motioned to the toddler. "How's your baby?" I asked. I wanted to retrieve the question but it flew out before I could catch it. This body before me had never gone through the trauma of childbirth.
     "She's my sister," said Jesmary matter-of-factly. For her, motherhood wasn't out of the realm of possibility. Pregnancy happens often to thirteen year old girls in a Miskito village.
    Suddenly, a stout woman emerged from the other door, the sleeping quarters. Dark-skinned, she had the air of a creole woman, of a woman from the coast who had seen more of the world than is visible from this little bend in the river. She introduced herself as though it were natural for a white man not only to speak Miskito but to be traveling door-to-door in a remote village checking to make sure everything was on the up and up. I had caught her napping.
    "I am Jesmary's aunt," she said; defensively, I thought.  "My husband is the supervisor of all the Moravian churches on the lower Wangki," she said proudly. She was Pasin Maya, a parson's wife.
    "Naksa, Pasin Maya." I shook her hand. "Are you Alejandra Medrano's sister?"
    She nodded. "I came from Port yesterday."
    "And the mother?"
    "She's in Port."
    "So you're taking care of the house for your sister." She nodded again without speaking.      
    "We're really sorry Jesmary isn't in school anymore," I began. "We think she ought to be, but the teacher said she was kicked out because she has a husband…"
    "A boyfriend," Pasin Maya corrected. "She doesn't have a husband, she has a boyfriend."
    "You mean they don't live together?"
    "No. She's here with me."
    "Jesmary got kicked out of school then because she has a boyfriend?" I asked incredulously. The teacher said she has a MAN. He said it like that: Waitna brisa."
    Pasin Maya insisted that the girl was under her charge and that there was no man in the house.
    The silent Jesmary standing there, listening to her case being discussed. I didn't want to take it any further.
    "Would you like to go back to school?" I asked her.
    "Yes," she nodded in agreement.
    We invited them all to the evening's event and departed unsettled, with a dozen little question marks hooked like disturbing earrings into piercings in our minds.      
    In the dry season, deep, round ruts made by the hooves of cows are hard, and it makes walking along paths awkward in marshy places, especially when you have a torn meniscus. I try to look light on my feet. I keep asking, "Darling, am I walking normal? Am I walking normal?" For Nutie it's a little exasperating. She chuckles lightly to herself.
"Yes, you're walking fine," she says. She knows I don't believe her.


SupermoonBack in Waspam in time for the "super moon." I brought up the case of Jesmary with Truman, Dani, and Augusto.
    "Her auntie says she doesn't have a man, she has a boyfriend. Why can't she go back to school? What about the boyfriend? Why didn't he get kicked out also?"
    "That case is a little complicated," Dani said in his usual studied manner. "They are family to me. I investigated it and it's complicated."
    'Complicated' usually results in nothing being done. I guessed that after digging into the matter Dani had touched a nerve; a nerve most likely meaning a demonic resistance to justice on the part of someone who claimed rights to the child and whose own gratification would be threatened by any action taken to curtail it. This, in Miskito, means that everyone backs off, not wanting to bear the headache of making an enemy and perhaps being marked for spells of misbara, the malignant Miskito obeah in which putrid recipes might be put in a bottle and buried in the path where the intended victim is accustomed to walk.
    "What did you find out?" I demanded. "What's going on and why is it complicated?"
    Dani told me that Alejandra, Jesmary's mother, had sent her husband Mesac packing because of the feebleness of his support, saying that she could do better in life without him. According to her plan, she then gave Jesmary as a concubine to a married man, who regularly supplied her with provision in return for the child's favors. Although Mesac protested, he had already taken up with another woman who would never accept another woman's child.
    "So Jesmary is a victim … she's just doing what her mother commands her to do, and our response as a Christian institution is to kick her out of school? How can this be? What do you think Jesus would say about this situation?" I was trying to moderate my crusader voice, mi voz alterada, which Dani and Truman didn't like very much, but I wasn't doing a very good job of it.
    With wisdom or conformity, I wasn't sure which and thought maybe both, Truman explained that perhaps Jesmary wouldn't want to return to the same school after everything that had happened, and that maybe the best thing for her would be if her aunt could take her to live with her in Puerto Cabezas where she could make a fresh start. That, he said, was the solution we could be praying for. Frustrated, stuck, I set my burden down. I had to think; what else could be done? This is the Autonomous Region, a place where two overlapping, conflicting sets of laws give way to the inertia of tradition, in which these broke down behavior patterns are lamented but not contested. All the rules for behavior have been figured out long ago and handed down from the ancestors. But the ancestors all sinned, and gave themselves indulgences, which in turn were handed down tacitly, and became the unspoken practice of culture. There was no state agency to intervene … but what about the church? Everyone claims affiliation to some religious institution that calls itself iklesia, the community where God supposedly holds court and determines what must be done. In 1 Corinthians 5 the apostle Paul admonished the church to take a stand on such issues and apply the pressure of removing such a one from fellowship for the sake of repentance. Oh, that there would be a true fellowship in the gospel, one so pure and holy and attractive that it would have power to cause people out of fellowship to want back in, to desire the sweetness of it. This kind of church does not exist in Sawa. Holy Spirit, speak to us, empower us!
   
The law of the Lord is perfect, converting the soul:
the testimony of the Lord is sure, making wise the simple.
The statutes of the Lord are right, rejoicing the heart:
the commandment of the Lord is pure, enlightening the eyes.
The fear of the Lord is clean, enduring forever:
the judgements of the Lord are true and righteous altogether.
More to be desired are they than gold, yea, than much fine gold:
sweeter also than honey and the honeycomb.
Moreover by them is your servant warned:
and in keeping of them there is great reward.

Who can understand his errors? cleanse thou me from secret faults.
Keep back thy servant also from presumptuous sins; let them not have dominion over me:
then shall I be upright, and I shall be innocent from the great transgression.
Let the words of my mouth, and the meditation of my heart,
be acceptable in thy sight, O Lord, my strength, and my redeemer.
(Psalms 19:7-14)